1 Sketchy's Kitchen
Due to some domain issues, my website went down the day before the big reveal. SO verry sorry.

Each month the Daring Cooks take on a challenging new recipe to test out abilities and comfort zones. I was granted the honor of hosting the July challenge. I opted to go for one of my own culinary passions - Molecular Cuisine.  Many people are afraid to even broach the subject in the kitchen, or have decided they don't like the cooking style - having never attempted or tried the resulting food.

I chose something that would introduce the Daring Cooks to the style of cooking without requiring expensive tools or exotic ingredients (no chemicals required). An oven or microwave would prepare most of the ingredients.  All you needed that was 'different' - a coffee/herb grinder, or a morter and pestle.

For July, I delved into a fascinating cookbook and pulled out Skate - Traditional Flavors Powdered. This is a dish from Grant Achatz, found in the Alinea cookbook - page 230.I feel this is a good introduction to Molecular Cuisine.  Just a little work and you can make this, the techniques are not very hard and only require a few tools.

DSC_0875.jpg  Onto the recipe:

Skate, Traditional Flavors Powdered - with changes

  • 4 skate wings
  • * Beurre monte
  • * 300g fresh green beans
  • sea salt/kosher salt
  • 1 banana
  • 454g butter - 4 sticks
  • 300g lemons
  • 5g citric acid/vitamin c tablet
  • 150g cilantro
  • 150g parsley
  • 100g dried banana chips
  • 300g spray dried cream powder (or powdered milk)
  • 100g cup minced red onion
  • 200g capers (brined, not in oil)
* For green beans, slice each beans into very thin rounds (2 mm) * Beurre Monte - 454g butter (4 sticks, 1 pound) cubed and cold, 60g water. In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil, remove from heat and whisk in the butter 1 cube at a time. This should from an emulsion. Keep this heated, but under 195 degrees. The emulsion will not break - this is your poaching liquid.

DSC_0830.jpgPowders - prepare ahead of time
caper / onion
lemon powder
cilantro/parsley powder
'brown butter' powder

Powders once dried, all powders should be pulsed in a coffee grinder/spice mill/morter and pestle then passed through a chinois or fine mesh strainer.

Citrus powder
300g lemons
1000g simple syrup
5g citric acid/vitamin c tablet

Zest 300g of lemons (10.6 oz), remove the pith from the zest and poach in the simple syrup three times. dry with paper towels and move to a dehydrating tray. 130 for 12 hours. pulse the zest in a coffee grinder, pass through chinois, and mix with citric acid/vitamin C powder. If you do not have a dehydrator, place in microwave for 8 to 10 minutes at medium powder. Once dried, follow the other instructions.

DSC_0816.jpgCilantro/parsley powder
150g cilantro
150g parsley

Blanch the parsley in boiling saltwater for 1 second, submerge the leaves in ice water for 3 minutes. Dry on paper towels and place on dehydrator tray. 130 for 12 hours. grind and pass through chinois. If you do not have a dehydrator, place in microwave for 30 seconds, turn over leaves and microwave for another thirty seconds. They should be dry by now, pulse in coffee grinder, pass through chinois and reserve.

Onion powder
100g cup minced red onions

dehydrate - 130 for 12 hours microwave at medium power for 20 minutes. pulse in grinder, pass through chinois

DSC_0827.jpgCaper powder
200g capers (get the ones packed in brine/vinegar)

Run the capers under cold water for two minutes to remove some of the brine. dry on paper towels and dehydrate for 12 hours at 130 degrees. microwave instructions are unclear. Dry them as much a possible with paper towels, the microwave on medium for 1 minute. Check the moisture content and stir them. repeat for 30 second intervals until they are dry. If you use this method, pleas post the time needed to dry the capers. Once dry, pulse and sift the powder. Mix it with the onion powder.

DSC_0828.jpgBrown Butter powder
100g Dried banana chips (unsweetened if possible - many are coated in honey - the freeze dried ones would be brilliant)
300g spray dried cream powder

If you cannot find the cream powder, you can substitute Bob's red mill non fat dry milk powder, or even carnation instant milk powder. The substitutions will alter the flavor a little, but you will still get the general idea. preheat the oven to 350 degrees, sift the cream powder into a fine layer on a silpat or on parchment. bake for 4 minutes, then remove for heat. If it bakes for too long, it will burn.

Be very cautious with all powders in the oven. They all go from browned to burnt in a few seconds. grind the banana chips in a coffee grinder and mix with the toasted cream powder. Pass this through a chinois and reserve.

* For green beans, slice each beans into very thin rounds (2 mm)
* Beurre Monte - 454g butter (4 sticks, 1 pound) cubed and cold, 60g water. In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil, remove from heat and whisk in the butter 1 cube at a time. This should from an emulsion. Keep this heated, but under 195 degrees. The emulsion will not break - this is your poaching liquid.

Skate
Prepare the skate - 50G v shaped cuts are recommended Bring 100g water, 100g beurre monte, and green bean rounds to a boil over high heat. Cook until the water has evaporated (about 3 minutes), when the pan is almost dry, remove it from heat and season with 3g salt.

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Bring 300g water and 300g beurre monte to simmer over medium heat, add skate wings and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from heat and flip the wing over and let rest in pan for two more minutes. Transfer to warming tray lined with parchment and season with 5 grams of fine sea salt.

Plating
Take the tip of a small spoon and make a small mound of the citrus powder, the onion-caper powder, and the cilantro parsley-powder. Swirl these around in a hurricane type pattern. I found that it is easier, and you get finer lines if you lightly shake the plate to flatten out the mounds, then swirl the spoon through it to get the pattern.

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Peel the remaining banana into very think slices (3mm) fan three slices on the plate, place green beans on top and place skate wing portion on top. On the tall edge, sprinkle the brown butter powder.

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aving domain issues, hope to be back in a few hours. I apologised to all the Daring Cooks for missing my own challenge.
sketchy

Daring Cooks - June

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Better late then never - been behind in posts...
The June challenge was to make Gyoza (Japanese dumplings) - Hosted by Jen from use real butter

This was a fun challenge, I steamed a batch, and tried to burn my house down with the other.  It's difficult to have a conversation with 4 people when attempting to cook.  flames flew fromthe pan and almost got my arm.

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I made a filling of pork, chicken, wasabi, cabbage, onion, carrots, and garlic.  The wrappers were easy to make.  On the seond batch of wrappers, I added a tablespoon of powdered wasabi to the dough. Next time I will add two or three.  You could smell the wasabi, but it was not very present in the dough.

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That's the batch that tried to kill me.  Make sure you reduce the heat when you add liquid to a tightly packed pan that is searing with oil.  I made a total mess with that one. I think I'll stick with steaming from now on.
for the dipping sauce, I used soy, rice wine vinegar, and sriracha.  It was quite pleasant.

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Dominion Harvest

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For those of you who have not heard of Dominion Harvest (probably most), let me introduce them to you.  They are a local company to Richmond that specializes in home delivery of local produce.

We've been getting packages for a few weeks, and for the most part, they are great.  The vegetables are excellent.  Swiss chard, asparagus, sugar snap peas, beets, radishes - so many vegetables. They are in very good condition, and lost a long time if you store them properly.

chard1.jpgWe wash and dry the vegetables, then wrap in paper towels and store in zip top bags.  All of the produce comes from local sustainable farms within 100 miles of Richmond.  They've been in business a few weeks, and are doing a very good job.  We get a crate of vegetables once a  week for under forty dollars ($37).  It gives us fresh produce without having to leave the house.  Each box has 10 to 12 different types of produce.  We've gotten a wide selection, and each week we could get different things - whatever's in season.

This makes it very interesting when planning meals - what veggies will we get today!

mushrooms.jpgchard.jpgMy wife has discovered she loves Swiss chard if prepared correctly.   We're eating a lot of greens now - having to come up with creative ways to cook it, and the stems to keep things interesting.  We've typically lived off the 'staple' vegetables - carrots, onions, squash, potatoes, etc.  Now we are eating a lot of spinach, chard, radishes, peas, greens, etc.  We have a much larger variety of options when cooking.  And it's all super healthy for pregnant women, so the wife is happy.


The only complaint I have it the fruit.  So far, we've gotten very little, and what we get is not in the best condition.  The strawberries were small and overripe - to the point where they 'splattered' when tossed into the sink.  The only reason this was an issue - the Ashland Berry Farm had a festival the same weekend - giant strawberries in great condition.  I thought - why can't we get these strawberries.  We had around 6 usable raspberries in the last shipment.  And with a 3 ½ year old, we tend to eat fruit every meal.

But the vegetables are excellent.  I'm looking forward to when they activate the options on the website to add/remove certain items to your order.  I wonder if the fruit is damages in transit - it tends to be near the bottom of the package (instead of on top) or if the 'newness' of the company is affecting their ability to get the best fruit available.

asparagus.jpgEven with the fruit quality, I would still highly recommend the service. If enough people in your neighborhood sign up, they will start delivering to you.  We have the option for every week or every other week.  And they have a deluxe package with additional items, eggs, cheese, etc at a higher price.

Local company, local produce - if you are in Richmond, check it out



Gnocchi

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The Daring Bakers have spawned a new sibling - The Daring Cooks.  Similar concept, different method. For the first challenge, we attacked ricotta cheese. To be more specific - Zuni Ricotta Gnocchi.

This was chosen as the first challenge, and the recipe comes from The Zuni Cafe Cookbook.

Recipe: 
1 pound (454 grams/16 ounces) fresh ricotta (2 cups)
2 large cold eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) unsalted butter
2 or 3 fresh sage leaves, or a few pinches of freshly grated nutmeg, or a few pinches of chopped lemon zest (all optional)
½ ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated (about ¼ cup very lightly packed)
about ¼ teaspoon salt (a little more if using kosher salt)
all-purpose flour for forming the gnocchi

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Forming the gnocchi was similar to making potato or butternut squash gnocchi, but the moisture differences were noticeable.  The recipe came together quickly, all in one bowl.  I pressed the ricotta, then mixed in the eggs, cheese, butter, nutmeg, and salt.  Initially, I tried the larger form that was recommended, but I did not like the amount that you got each bite.

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I rolled mine smaller and dusted them with flour.  One thing I noticed.  If you let them sit for more then ten minutes, they may stick together.  If this happens, you will need to reshape them.  If they are cooked with exposed edges, they will explode in the water and fall apart.

By themselves in a butter sauce, the cheese and nutmeg shine through.  The texture is very moist and reminiscent of ricotta cheese.  For dinner, I decided to toss the first ones in an almond pesto, and the second pile in a chicken mole sauce. I think I burnt part of the sauce reduction because the sauce was a little on the bitter side.

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Even the small ones were filling. Neither of us finished our dinner.
The April 2009 challenge is hosted by Jenny from Jenny Bakes. She has chosen Abbey's Infamous Cheesecake as the challenge.

I thought about this for a while and asked some friends what type of cheesecake they would like.  I offered up two options.  Chocolate passion fruit or honey lemon lavender.
 
DSC_0065.jpgI checked Whole Foods and they actually had passion fruit.  It was the first time in two years I have found actual passion fruit in Richmond.  Usually you can only find a juice blend.  The actual fruit is much tarter then the juice - which is cut with apple juice.  This worked very nicely with the bittersweet chocolate.  To alter the texture of the cheesecake, I used half cream cheese and half marscarpone cheese.  The cheesecake was quite dense and solid.  It cut very well, and held its shape.  The crust stayed dry and had a really good texture.  Three quarters of the cheesecake was distributed to neighbors.  I Think I gave too much away.

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Since the cheesecake came together so easily, I decided to make a second one.  This time I made a honey lavender lemon cheesecake. I decided to experiment with this one. I made a lemon shortbread crust.  This was one of the easiest crusts I have ever made.  I made a little on the thick side, and I think that was a good idea.  Once cooked, the crust had a wonderful lemon taste, with the dry crumb of a shortbread cookie.  I used some lemon curd I had sitting in the ice box, mixed it with a small amount of the cheesecake mixture to prevent a bad memory from reoccurring.  I once made a cheesecake with a lemon curd swirl - when  I unmolded it, all the swirls separated and it fell apart.  Cooked cheesecake and liquid lemon curd. Adding some of the batter lets the lemon curd fully incorporate/cook with the rest of the cheesecake, while still keeping the swirl look.

DSC_0402.jpgThis cheesecake held its shape quite well, but was 100% creamier then the chocolate one.  It even won over the neighbor who said that lavender would taste like cleaner.  She loved it.  I think it is the best cheesecake I have ever made.  My wife even liked it, and she usually doesn't like cheesecake.

Unfortunately, I forgot take any pictures of the finished product


English Muffins

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DSC_0146.jpgBy request of on of Jen's friends, I'm going to make a post about my English muffins.  In an attempt to save some money, I started making English muffins for breakfast.  I wasn't sure how they would turn out at first, but they are quite easy to make, and can be completed in one day, which is always nice.

I'm using a recipe from A Bread Bakers Apprentice.  It has a handful of ingredients, and is very easy to complete.  I've made three batches of muffins, and they get easier each time.  No special equipment is needed, well.. you will need a cast iron griddle or skillet to cook them, besides that, it's all straight forward.

Ingredients are flour, butter, milk, yeast, salt, sugar, and corn meal.

DSC_0047.jpgThe recipe makes six large English muffins, the tops and bottoms are crispy, while the center is soft and full of nooks and crannies (if you open them correctly).  The corn meal is used for dusting, otherwise, they would never release from the parchment paper when you go to cook them.

To cook them - warm up a griddle and oven to 350 degrees.  Once it is up to temperature, drop three of the muffins on the griddle and cook for seven to eight minutes.  Flip them over and cook fro the same amount of time.  When you put them on the griddle, you may hear they crackle and pop, this is normal and nothing to be concerned about. The goal is to get a nice dark crust on the bottom before flipping.  They will come to a medium brown in two to three minutes, but may take up to eight minutes to get the nice rich brown you are looking for.  They are very resilient to burning, so if you keep an eye out for the color after 5 minutes, you should not have any problems.

DSC_0124.jpgOnce cooked on both sides, place the muffins in the oven for 8 minutes to insure the centers are cooked through.  Then cool on a rack until room temperature.  We keep ours chilled, and fork separate them before toasting in the morning.  To get the expected texture when toasting, you really need to use  fork to separate them, otherwise, you get a uniform smooth cut with no where for the butter/lemon curd/cheese/etc to go.

These can easily be completed in an afternoon.  When the little chef gets a little bigger, I think he would have fun helping me make these.  Since everything is done on the griddle, they are easy to shape, drop, and flip.

DSC_0130.jpgRecipe after the break ---
DSC_0175.jpgThis month, I got to pull out the pasta attachments for my Kitchen Aid mixer.  We made spinach lasagna - this was super simple to make, and was loved by some our good friends.  As for baking - I put that at a bit of a stretch, but I followed the recipe none the less. I already have a pasta maker, so no amount of pushing or pleading will get me to make pasta by hand again.

The March 2009 challenge is hosted by Mary of Beans and Caviar, Melinda of Melbourne Larder and Enza of Io Da Grande. They have chosen Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna from The Splendid Table by Lynne Rossetto Kasper as the challenge.

The first thing I did was to make the Ragu alla Contadina.  I used the meats I had on hand (and I can't stand to use veal) - so we had sirloin steak, buffalo, and a pork loin.  To that I added some prosciutto and panchetta, celery, onions, carrots, tomatoes, and some other ingredients.  This slow cooked for about 2 hours.

Next up was the pasta - this was fun.  I used organic frozen spinach, eggs, and flour.  This is where a pasta machine is your friend.  I've made pasta by hand before, and it is so much more enjoyable when you have something to help flatten the pasta for you.

DSC_0169.jpgI took it all the way to the thinnest setting. It was remarkably thin.  I could see the wood grain of the butchers block through the pasta.  Once rolled and cut, I laid out the pasta to dry.  I wanted to keep it flat, because I dislike cooking the pasta ahead of time, especially if is homeade.

DSC_0201.jpgSome of it curled up, but a little time with the ragu/bechamel sauce, they quickly hydrated and flattened out.  though I did run into one problem when assembling.  This recipe did not scale well to my lasagna pan.  I could not find a pan size in the instructions, so I went ahead and started with my normal, straight edge, shart corner metal lasagna pan.  Well, after the first layer, I realized the pan was way too big. I only got in five layers, and I stretched one of those.  Only two layers had meat.  This meant short and wide slices, insted of tall and narrow slices. Next time I will double the recipe.

This was excellent hte first day, and just as good the second.  I think it could have used a little more cheese, and a slight touch of spice.  Unfortunatly, we didn't get any pictures of the night of service, but I remembered to take a shot of the last piece before it was eaten.

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Back to Basics

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It's been a while since I've updated here, as I said before, I got in a slump.  Well, I resurrected my sourdough starter, and started baking again.  I'll start my first sourdough in three month tonight (possibly tomorrow - depending if the sky's are clear).

DSC_0190.jpgThis last week we had come company over for dinner.  Can't talk about the main course yet, but I can talk about the rustic bread I made, the sauteed mushrooms, garlic, and tomato bread dip, and the other dishes.  First up - we have the bread, this was a cold fermented rustic recipe. Most doughs require room temperature proofing to get the yeast growing. I really like the texture and flavor of this bread, but I am deeply saddened that my stone is sitting in 4 pieces in the garage.  The tops browned very nicely, but the bottoms were very weak.  you just can't get good browning with metal pans.  I'll have to go get some tiles tomorrow morning.

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Next up was a basic for me. Marshmallows.  This time we have passionfruit marshmallows.  These were made with concentrated passionfruit juice (since you cannot buy them in richmond).  I used two egg whites in this recipe, so they are a little fluffier then the gelatin only recipe that is most common.

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As for the stars and the sky - I got a great shot of a crescent Venus with my Nikon D40 with a telephoto lens.
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It's been a while since I've updated here, as I said before, I got in a slump.  Well, I resurrected my sourdough starter, and started baking again.  I'll start my first sourdough in three month tonight (possibly tomorrow - depending if the sky's are clear).

DSC_0190.jpgThis last week we had come company over for dinner.  Can't talk about the main course yet, but I can talk about the rustic bread I made, the sauteed mushrooms, garlic, and tomato bread dip, and the other dishes.  First up - we have the bread, this was a cold fermented rustic recipe. Most doughs require room temperature proofing to get the yeast growing. I really like the texture and flavor of this bread, but I am deeply saddened that my stone is sitting in 4 pieces in the garage.  The tops browned very nicely, but the bottoms were very weak.  you just can't get good browning with metal pans.  I'll have to go get some tiles tomorrow morning.

DSC_0212.JPG


Next up was a basic for me. Marshmallows.  This time we have passionfruit marshmallows.  These were made with concentrated passionfruit juice (since you cannot buy them in richmond).  I used two egg whites in this recipe, so they are a little fluffier then the gelatin only recipe that is most common.

DSC_0149.JPG